Thursday, October 25, 2007

Catchup post: Toro!





We went to Seville today, and were quite impressed with the public spaces and gardens. We took an unguided tour, “Seville on your own” that brought us from Cadiz to Seville, past the world’s largest bull shaped bill board (they take their cow flesh seriously here in southern Spain) and into the heart of the city.

It then reminded me of elementary school, when half the class isn’t listening as the teacher gives instructions and then everyone shouts out. “What page is this?” We were to meet at three pm at map location 19, which the bus monitor quite diligently told us, only to be greeted by a chorus of “What time do we meet?” “What number on the map” or even more annoyingly” “Hey, What NUMBA!?” We beat a hasty retreat and then went to the Alcazar, the Alhambra of Seville. While waiting in line, one of the other folks on our bus came up to ask us how much the tickets were. We weren’t sure, but the guidebook said 7 Euros, and we were reasonably certain that was close. She thanked us, and then returned 2 minutes later, asking how long we had been waiting, and then proceeded to regale us with how long the line was, how far back they were in it, and we did have to meet at 3 after all.


She was obviously angling to cut the line with us, but a) we had never met, b) I was pretty sure she was the “What NUMBA!?” lady, and c) she probably would have been the first to have an unholy flame spouting conniption if a bunch of Spaniards had cut her in the line at the White House (The fortress is still an official Royal Palace). We smiled and sympathized but did not offer to help her out as I am not about to start a riot in Spain. She got mad and then she stormed off, but we got nods from the folks behind us. Frankly we spent more time with them then we ever will with her. Shortly afterward, another person from our cruise came up and asked, with no preamble, “How do you know what this is? Is it the Fortress? There’s no sign!” I would have thought the 40 foot high stone walls in the middle of the city would have been a hint and half. We reassured her that she was indeed at the right place (numba 12) and then gratefully proceeded through the gate.

The Alcazar was just stunning, all knotwork, calligraphy, tiles and Islamic gardens. I had written about them in my Master’s thesis, and so I geeked out a bit. Afterward, we sat in a café in the medieval quarter of town, had paella with squid bits and then wandered for a while. We went past the bull fighting ring, but alas there was no cry of Toro!Toro! as the fights are on the weekends. We did see some Flamenco street dancers, and got constantly tripped up as we spoke to all the people who waited on us. Apparently we have been to Italy often enough that our instinct is to start with Italian, before realizing that we are in Spain. Stupid Americans.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Scott- You ate squid bits????? Love all your narriating of yourtrip. You guys are the best..Love You MOM XXXOOO